After a long, hot day exploring Split, a wonderfully comfortable, air-conditioned catamaran ferry took us to the dreamy island of Korčula.
This was as close to a luxury Adriatic cruise as we would come on our current budget, but watching the mountainous islands go by between the light blue sky and the deep blue sea, foregrounded by silhouetted sailboats, put it on the list of things to do some day, perhaps.
Perhaps, when we’re older (and/or rich)
Soon the magically picturesque Korčula town came into view as the sun dipped low behind us, casting a golden glow over the jasmine-yellow walls and terracotta roofs of the buildings as we docked. And were it not for the kindly owner of our accommodation coming out to meet us on the street, we would have had another ‘we were lost on the narrow winding roads’ entry to post. Bless him, I’m slowly running out of ways to tell that story. Nonetheless, we did get to walk around the stepped, cobblestoned streets and take in the vibe — finally on a Croatian island!
The best way to experience Croatia (at least on this kind of budget) is to rent small apartment-type accommodation: typically cheaper than hotels, they often come with the added benefit of a small kitchenette (making healthy eating easy and cheap), an English-speaking local owner who doubles as a tour guide and wealth of information, and they typically provide a bit more comfort than most lower-end hotels do. And, in rare cases like this one, a lightning-fast wifi connection and a washing machine.
One of the many not-terrible places to eat on Korčula
It was Father’s Day, and we invited each set of parents into our dwelling — virtually, two-dimensionally — to speak with us via Skype.
We also threw in a load of laundry, and with great glee hung it out to dry on one of those pulley-rope-washing-line-thingies you’re prone to see suspended above you as you clip-clop your way down the stony floorings of European alleyways (yes, sometimes it’s the little things) — such that before we knew it, it had gone midnight. Stepping out for a quick stroll in the fresh night air we found, to our surprise, a moderately vibrant nightlife scattered around a few spots on the island, even for this late on a Sunday night. It was a little late to start getting involved at this point, and we’d had a long day, so we put having a couple of drinks on the to-do list for the following day.
Before it was couple-of-drinks time though, another cloudless and hot perfect day was in the making… another beach day. For some time we toyed with the idea of taking a water taxi to one of the small islands in the Dalmatian archipelago around Korčula, or a bus to some part of the island away from the eponymous town of Korčula itself. We deliberated, dithered, disputed, debated, and discussed what to do to make the most of the day — and luckily for us we did so in the style of the Ancient Greeks, who, in every depiction I’ve ever seen of them, walked around while thinking out loud. Before we knew it, we were standing at a perfect spot to spend the day and the discussion stopped right there: a small rocky cove a few steps down from a coastal road, just two hundred metres from the main town.
Part shade, part sun, all awesomeness, this spot was a great find — and the proximity to town meant we didn’t have to waste time traveling somewhere else; what we thought we were looking for was staring right at us the whole time. A great life lesson, perhaps, but this was no time for life lessons — not with this fangloritastic scene beckoning:
Warm up, rinse, repeat.
The recipe for a perfect day. The precursor to an interesting night…